South Africa - Part 1

Winter 2012/13

Gauteng, Mpumalanga & Kwazulu-Natal

Johannesburg to Dullstroom, 19 Dec 2012

Distance: 240km (3 hrs)

Route: OR Tambo International Airport (alt. 1700m) - Belfast (1880m) - Dullstroom (2000m)

Africa! After a rather bumpy flight and a long wait in the customs line, with some pushy Indian family elbowing their way to the end of the queue, we are granted permission to enter South Africa, which at least within the confines of OR Tambo International Airport doesn't present itself quite as exotic as one might expect (as I expected?). Taking over the rental car is pretty straightforward - our Nissan Qashqai, which we come to appreciate very quickly for its sturdiness and reliability, is waiting for us in the parking garage. We are heading straight for the N12, en route to Dullstroom, the first stop on our journey. The landscape mainly consists of arable land, interspersed with the occasional large power station looming in the far distance and seemingly somewhat out of place, or clearly visible scars in the ground that give away one of South Africa's major industries - the surface mining of natural resources.

The Highveld, en route to Dullstroom

Driving on the left side of the road is not a problem, but we are amazed by the number of people that are walking on the shoulder of the expressway or even crossing the lanes, mostly with a calmness that is rather irritating, and without doubt careless to say the least. Our worries are confirmed soon enough - we come across an accident which must have happened quite recently. While the police are advising us to slowly drive around the site, we spot a man still lying on his back and covered in blood. A wrecked car sits in the middle of the road, while some others are parked by the roadside, and a family sitting close by is in an apparent state of shock. We can't be sure, but it seems pretty safe to assume the injured man was trying to cross the road and got hit by a car in the process.

As we approach our first day's destination, the small city of Dullstroom in the Gauteng province, the landscape grows steadily more spectacular, with grassy rolling hills, groups of trees and small underbrush here and there – reminding us that we are entering the Highveld, with altitudes ranging between 1500 and 2100 meters.

To our desolation, upon our arrival at the Auldstone House we learn that the famous whisky bar – supposedly boasting the largest variety of whisky in the southern hemisphere – has already closed for the day, so we are deprived of our chance to try one of the 1000 plus malts and blends...the website actually only mentions 500, but what with us being in a good-natured vacation mood, we decide to buy the owner's story – especially since he's kind enough to equip us with some cans of Windhoek Lager to go with our takeaway dinner. Mixed salad, anchovy pizza and Namibia-brewed can beer in front of the fireplace – what more could we possibly ask for on our first evening?

Dullstroom to Hazyview (Panorama Route), 20 Dec 2012

Distance: 320km (Approx. 7 hrs)

Route: Dullstroom (2000m) - Robbers Pass (1778m) - Graskop (1440m) - Three Rondavels/Blyde River Canyon (1350m) - God's Window (1829m) - Graskop - Hazyview (500m)

Today's journey will take us along the Panorama Route, which – as we will soon find out – does its name more than justice. We take the 1778m high Robber's Pass - offering spectacular views - via Lydenburg, Pilgrim's Rest and Graskop, where we turn north, along the eastern escarpment of the Highveld. Part of this escarpment is made up by the magnificent Blyde River Canyon, one of the world's three biggest canyons, and the greenest of all. We share the breathtaking views with other visitors, some apparently from overseas, some seemingly from neighboring countries.

Three Rondavels above Blyde River Canyon,
with the Lowveld looming in the distance

Our next stop is Bourke's Luck Potholes, an assembly of fascinating rock formations and colors. Several bridges takes us over impressive canyons, featuring whitish bone-like pothole structures at the bottom. On our way to God's Window, we pay a visit to Berlin Falls, one of the multiple waterfalls in this area. Reaching the parking lot near God's Window, more than 1800 meters above sea-level, we are immediately enveloped in dense fog. The humbly named viewpoint that usually offers a spectacular view of the more than 1000m deeper-lying Lowveld in the east, is equally fogged, but we are ultimately rewarded with a splendid panorama from a higher vantage point, hidden behind a patch of dense rain forest that covers the eastern edge of the escarpment.

Above Blyde River Canyon

We once again head for Graskop, then continue descending into the Lowveld. In Hazyview we check in at Perry's Bridge Hollow, a cozy hotel nearby the main road, featuring a wonderfully furnitured room including an outside shower. With only a handful of other guests, we enjoy the pool area, before our evening is rounded off by a delicious dinner at next door's Perry's Bridge Brewery, accompanied by some excellent IPAs – yummy!

Hazyview to Sabi Sand, 21 Dec 2012

Distance: ca. 70km (1,5 hrs)

Route: Hazyview (500m) - Sabi Sands Game Reserve (280-300m)

After some lanes in the pool and a hearty breakfast at Kuka's, we are getting on our way towards Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve. We are following the paved road leading towards Kruger Park, but before reaching the park we take a left-turn onto a gravel road, heading for the Newington Gate that serves as the checkpoint for visitors to Sabi Sand.

Approaching Sabi Sands Game Reserve

We are soon passing some villages that seem to be off the beaten tourist tracks - at least we can't spot a single tourist, only locals - and the overall impression we get is that the area is somewhat impoverished. I am wondering if these villages do to some extent share in the financial gains generated by the multitude of high-end game lodges that are just a few kilometers away.

At the Newington Gate we are asked to pay a small entry fee. We will learn later that the receipt for this "Sabi Sand Wildtuin Gate Fee" needs to be stamped by the lodge, since it also serves as our exit permit - a minor, but nonetheless important formality.

We enter Sabi Sands proper and take in the breathtaking landscape that welcomes us. Not quite being sure whether or not we should already expect to come upon some animals, we spot a roof and and an antenna here and there in the ocean of trees, but Inyati - our temporary home for the following two days - remains hidden to the very last. Once we drive through the gate, we are welcomed by Delinda, the friendly receptionist, offering some tasty refreshments, followed by a light lunch on the lodge terrace, overlooking the Sand river - we feel at home already! And as if to prepare us for our first safari experience, scheduled for the afternoon, an orchestra of semi-distant grunting sounds culminates in the sudden apparition of a hippo that leisurely strolls across the lawn, then entering the Sand river at the far end of the lodge premises.

Sabi Sands, viewed from the terrace of Inyati Game Lodge

First Safari

Our first ever game drive starts in the afternoon, and not five minutes away from the lodge we get to see an impressive group of giraffes that seem to almost have been waiting for us. While Solly, our tracker, is constantly looking out for animal tracks on the ground from his elevated seat atop the engine hood, Ranger George - rifle tucked away above the dashboard - constantly keeps in touch with other rangers via walkie-talkie to find out about the day's best areas for game spotting.

First encounters

After a while we discover two lionesses on the ground, lazying around in the shadow of the underbrush. George explains that while both of them are just after having eaten and now working hard on digesting their prey, one of them is also highly pregnant, causing her to breathe heavily. Looking at these animals lying on their backs, with their paws stretched out, from the (alleged) safety of our land cruiser, we have to remind ourselves that we are actually looking at carnivores and not some cute puppy waiting to be cuddled.

While admiring the two lionesses, George tells us a story about six lions that went on a killing spree in the Sabi Sands area several years ago. According to George, this lead to a dramatic decimation of lions in the area, especially since those six lions were killing off most of the newborn cubs. Some of those lions would first mate with a female, then kill off their own offspring. Due to its viciousness, one of the lions was soon named after Mapoho, a private South African security company notorious for its uncompromising methods of fighting crime.

After coming across several herds of impala and nyala, our drive culminates in the spotting of a beautiful leopard with her cub and prey (or rather what's left of it) - the rear half of a warthog. Enthralled by watching her little cub seeking the mother's attention, we soon loose all sense of time.

Ranger George and tracker Solly

On the way to our today's sundowner spot we can make out a chain of distinct koppies - rocky hills, one of which features a group of buildings that seem to cling to the slopes right beneath the summit. The scene looks like right out of some adventure movie, and Catherine and Graham, our safari companions, tell us this is Sir Richard Branson's private game reserve Ulusaba. Later we will learn that Ulusaba means "place of little fear", for humans used to retreat to these hills to seek safety from predators - nowadays people retreat there whenever in need of a luxury holiday with all its amenities.

With the sun about to set, we reach the sandy banks of the Sand River (hence the name?), and George and Solly quickly prepare sundowners - we opted for Gin and Tonic (not least because of its protective properties with regard to malaria prophylaxis) - and some marvelous snacks, including e.g. dried kudu meat. Munching away, we listen to George sharing some more intriguing stories about life in the bush. A few years back, he tells us, the entire area was flooded by the Sand river - particularly hard to imagine now that the river only carries a small amount of water - due to a cyclone off the coast of nearby Mozambique, wreaking havoc there. Catherine says that back then she could tell something was wrong with the weather, herself being as far away as in Jo'burg, just by looking at the butterflies that would normally be heading towards the east at that particular time of year, but this time kept turning around.

Sundowner with style

Soon it is pitch dark, but our game drive continues for a little longer, and we spot another giraffe - her silhouette hardly discernible against the night sky. Back at the lodge, we are being escorted to our chalet, before being picked up again for a pre-dinner drink at the bar - wouldn't want to fall prey on our way to dinner! In the bar I spot a framed edition of National Geographic magazine, with our Ranger George on the cover, in his khaki clothes and rifle in hand. The title reads George - A life with the Big Five.

Soon we move to a traditional boma - a roofless enclosure made up of a straw fence - where dinner awaits us in a fantastic setting centered around a camp fire. Today's experiences are being exchanged over various excellent sorts of meat and beverages, and we get to know Christa and Stephan from Germany. Rather than by the game encountered during the afternoon drive, Christa seemed much more impressed by the Elephant that she was facing all of a sudden while enjoying a swim in the pool. A shot from the rifle of a ranger, and the elephant had to give up its newly found water hole.

Our very first day of safari experience comes to a close - with another extensive dose of "peaceful sleep" to ward off any mosquitoes, and we go to bed under a mosquito net for the first time. The humming of the ceiling fan soon puts us both to...well...peaceful sleep ;)

Sabi Sand Game Reserve, 22 Dec 2012

Our second day at Inyati starts at five o'clock, and with another thrilling game drive awaiting us, it's never been as easy to get up at this time of day. After a light breakfast, we are awaited by George and Solly. We encounter a group of elephants that are feeding on tree leaves, and soon our vehicle is surrounded by the entire group. While being George's favorite out of the big five, he is also concerned about the damage that elephants cause to the habitat, since after suffering from extensive culling, they are now under severe protection and therefore being able to reproduce without any restrictions. In spite of hearing this, we cannot help but admire the playful elephant cub, toying with a branch, while its mother is working on bringing down the entire tree - and quite successfully at that.

Dumbo - up close and personal

After coming across two white rhinos that are roaming the edge of a dry riverbed, George attempts to cross the Sand River at a ford - and the next moment we are stuck in the riverbed! We come to think of crocodiles and start scanning the water surface - but as soon as Solly simply jumps off his seat in order to fetch a rope, wading through the shallow water, we ease up a bit. George radios one of his colleagues in the vicinity, and although we don't understand his words, we later learn he is simply stating that he would like him to come over to the ford, but not actually admitting that he got stuck in the river - obviously being afraid he might turn into tonight's dinner topic number one (which in the end he did). While waiting for help, we spot another elephant cub in the distance, crossing the river, and being much more successful at the undertaking than we are. Soon the mother follows its cub, and it's amazing to watch how these animals clearly enjoy the river's refreshment.

Stuck in the Sand River

Soon another of Inyati's land cruisers appears, a rope is attached to our vehicle, and George's fellow ranger hits the gas - only for the rope to snap, to the amusement of all spectators. The ranger comes up with a different sort of rope, and this time we get pulled out, but not before having been photographed multiple times by the other vehicle's passengers. George takes it lightly and soon stops for our morning coffee in the bush.

After returning to the lodge, we enjoy some time at the pool, followed by high tea, before embarking on our afternoon safari - and this time we're in for a treat. George learns from one of his fellow rangers that not too far away there's a leopard guarding some fresh prey; and impala, as we can soon see for ourselves.

Leopard with bloody snout

The leopard is hiding in the underbrush, working away at his prey. George explains that whatever image one may have of these carnivores, they are actually quite hygienic when devouring their prey, first removing all fur before opening the carcass. But once the leopard in front of us does just that, we hear a crunching sound once its jaws shatter the bones, and shortly afterwards an overwhelming stench invades our nostrils - the leopard has opened up the impala's stomach and intestines. A little later we can see the impala's blood decorating the leopard's snout as if it were red lipstick.

Sabi Sand to Ermelo, 23 Dec 2012

Distance: 320km (5 hrs)

Route: Sabi Sand - Hazyview (500m) - Witrivier - Nelspruit - Carolina - Ermelo (1700m)

We are leaving for our final safari, this time having the land cruiser all to ourselves, with our regulars George and Solly in the front seats - and although we enjoy the privilege to have our own "private safari", we both discover that we miss the conversations we had with Catherine and Matthew. This morning's highlight is certainly the hungry leopard going on the hunt, being totally indifferent to us following her in the vehicle. We are an inch away of being witness to the leopard chasing a herd of impala, but before she gets her chance, a nearby bird's cry alarms the herd and chases them away. Our final safari at Inyati is completed by spotting, among other animals, a group of African buffalo and a hyena.

Final encounter before leaving Sabi Sand

Before noon we are leaving Sabi Sand, seen off by a horde of zebras that are grazing beside the gravel road. Soon we are back on paved road, passing Hazyview, then Witrivier (white river), before we approach Mbombela - named Nelspruit until 2010 -, one of the cities hosting the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Here the improvement in the road conditions is striking, making it obvious that - apart from the newly built stadium, with its distinct roof-supporting pillars that resemble giraffes, - the city underwent major developments to be made presentable for overseas tourists. But as soon as we put some distance between ourselves and Mbombela, the usual potholes - sometimes the size of a manhole - are part of the road again. By now we have noticed that it's always the highways in urban areas where pedestrians wait or walk by the roadside, or even attempt at crossing the lanes, but in the more rural areas where most roads only consist of two lanes, we hardly spot anyone. In the beautiful Elands Valley on the N4 we make a brief stop, soon looking for shade due to the intense heat that day. The road continues to take us through beautiful landscapes with rolling green hills, the vegetation indicating that we are gaining altitude.

Artsy Izimbali Lodge, Ermelo

In the provincial town of Ermelo, sitting at the crossroads of various national routes, we quickly locate Izimbali Lodge, not an outstanding place to stay, but certainly sufficient considering that most people are simply passing through this featureless city that could easily double for a small town somewhere in the US. We are having a steak and beers at Dros, a family restaurant of some sort, and to our surprise our super-friendly and attentive waiter named "Gift" offers us the cutting board that the steak was served on as a souvenir, which we accept first and foremost in order not to seem rude. In fact, it has since become one of our most regularly used kitchen utensils.

Ermelo to Golden Gate Highlands National Park, 24 & 25 December

Distance: 320km (3 hrs)

Route: Ermelo (1700m) - Standerton - Vrede - Warden - Harrismith - Basotho Cultural Village (1800m)

We make good progress, driving through wide rolling hills that are stretching out to the horizon. The closer we get to the Drakensberg, the cloudier it gets, adding a serene touch to the wide landscape. Soon we spot a bunch of individual table mountains that look like lost sentinels, before the Drakensberg itself becomes visible ahead. By now the sky has turned into a dark grey, and we are welcomed by thunder, lightning, and a heavy downpour, before we spot our destination: Basotho Cultural Village, a group of rondavels nestled to the mountain side, right underneath a rocky outcrop and overlooking the highlands.

Checking in turns out to be more of a challenge than getting here, since we cannot make out anything that resembles a reception, and no one around really seems to feel responsible. Once we are shown to our Rondavel (in a rather informal way), we go to retrieve our compulsory National Park Permit at Glen Reenen Rest Camp (ZAR 480 for the two of us, covering two days), then on for some grocery shopping in a - not too well equipped - tiny supermarket, but it's enough for tonight's braai. Due to the unstable weather, we decide to go for a loop drive on the Blesbok and Oribi Loop (equipped with a simple guide map handed to us along with the permit), halfway between our accommodation and the Golden Gate-called rock formation that gives the entire national park its name. The loop drives offer some stunning panoramic views - we are right on time for a gorgeous sunset -, and in the far distance off to the north we can again make out the Drakensberg, towering above the neighboring mountains. Happy to be in such a lonely spot in the middle of a beautiful landscape, we celebrate Christmas Eve with a Windhoek lager and some meat and veggie braai in front of our Rondavel and by the romantic light of a gas lantern.

Sunset over the Golden Gate Highlands

In terms of weather, our stay in the national park is marked by exemplary conditions: Little bits of sunshine, frequently interrupted by heavy downpours, thunder and lightning. And so since the following morning starts with rainy weather, we decide to first go for a coffee at the Golden Gate Hotel, not far from Glen Reenen Rest Camp. We find out that we are quite happy with our Rondavel, since the hotel may very well provide for a comfortable stay, but it has no charm whatsoever (unless you like corny Christmas trees decorating the lobby and overpriced souvenir shops that sell nothing but junk). A short drive over Lichens Pass (2041m alt.) takes us to Clarens, a tiny but charming town with lots of art shops, ateliers and cafes.

Catering for Elves? - Signpost in Clarens

On the way back we park the car at Glen Reenen Rest Camp, since the rain has temporarily stopped, and start out for a walk to Mushroom Rock, the most prominent feature around. Attempting a climb all the way up to the top of Mushroom Rock, we finally have to give in to the rain that has kicked in yet again and makes for a way too slippery path. We go back to our Rondavel for a light lunch, before hike halfway up one of the nearby lower peaks. In the evening we enjoy another braai dinner in front of our Rondavel, sheltered by the thatched roof and watching the rain, thunder and lightning in the distance - who needs television when you can have something like that instead?

Golden Gate Highlands

Golden Gate Highlands National Park to Durban, 26 December

Distance: 356km (4 hrs)

Route: Basotho Cultural Village (1800m) - Harrismith - Pietermaritzburg - Durban (sea level)

After passing once again through Harrismith, we follow national route N3, with the peaks of the Drakensberg looming to our right. The curving road keeps climbing until we reach Van Reenens Pass at 1690 meters altitude, shrouded in mist. After that it's all downhill, towards the coast of the Indian Ocean, and soon the mist makes way for sunny weather again.

Arriving at our hotel in Durban early afternoon (and after a failed attempt to park the car somewhere near the beach in order to go for a stroll and grab some light lunch - welcome to city life!), we decide to drive straight to King Shaka International Airport - just a twenty-odd minute drive north - and return the car, which has served us well for more than 1.800km. A lunch and a beer later, we have to patiently wait for the shuttle's next departure back to town, so we can return to our hotel.

Waiting for check-in time at Durban's
King Shaka Int'l Airport

Before we turn in for the night - our plane towards Port Elizabeth leaves early next morning - we go for a swim in the rooftop pool, with a view of the sun setting above the city and the Indian Ocean coastline. The location is made even more exotic by a group of young men and women with Indian-looking features and dressed up as if they were attending a costume show. Apparently the entire pool area has been turned into the venue for a round of pre-wedding party cocktails.

The second part of our trip - Garden Route to Cape Town - will be published soon!