South Africa - Part 2

Winter 2012/13

Part 3 - Garden Route to Cape Town

Durban to Stormsriver, 27 Dec 2012

Distance: xx km
Route: Durban - Port Elizabeth - Stormsriver

At 6am an airport shuttle takes us from the Square Hotel to Durban's neat and cleanly King Shaka International Airport, where our flight to Port Elizabeth leaves right on time (since we left too early for breakfast to be served, the hotel staff were so kind to prepare some lunch boxes for us instead). For most part of the flight we look down upon the beautiful deserted beaches of the Indian Ocean, and after a mere 90 minutes our plane pulls up in front of the terminal at Port Elizabeth Airport. We exit via a staircase and cross the runway towards the very provincial-looking terminal building. After some waiting time and formularities, we are lead to our rental car, which turns out to be a Honda fit with obviously a few years under its belt and an appalling cigarette smoke inside. Without much hassle though we can convince the rental car employee to give us the newer-looking Nissan Tiida instead, parked right beside. Nevertheless the gear shift will take some getting used to, after the comforts of the automatic and sturdy Nissan Qashqai that we were driving up to Durban. On the plus side, the road conditions along the Garden Route prove to be much better than in the north, continuously improving as we approach Cape Town.

The N2 takes us straight to Stormsriver, where we check into the Backpacker hostel we have reserved, since we couldn't get two nights at the Misty Mountain Reserve. With the afternoon left to explore, we opt for the walk to Storms River Mouth - and as much as we are impressed with the beautiful coastline, we are a bit overwhelmed with the amount of people crowding the camping area, adjacent restaurants and hiking trails here. We realize that we quite came to like the loneliness back in the Drakensberg area with its vast landscapes. We follow the walk to the lookout point which is high up on the cliff and therefore much less crowded, since most tourists seem to be content with staying close to the beach - which is very much to our content.

In the evening we happen to come across Rafters Restaurant, where we enjoy fabulous Ostrich meat with a Thierry & Guy Fat Bastard Shiraz from the Robinson winery, before retreating to the rather spartan but clean bedroom of our hostel.

Stormsriver, Misty Mountain Reserve, 28 Dec 2012

Storms River Bridge, spanning the gorge that further down widens to Storms River Mouth.

Check-in at Misty Mountain Reserve

Early afternoon Otter Trail to waterfall (2,5 hrs), hot and humid, difficult walk. The Otter Trail is part of an extensive network of trails that mostly follow the coastline. Hiking all of the Otter Trail requires paying a fee, so we are only allowed to go as far as the waterfall. Considering the blazing sun and humidity though this proves just about enough for a day's hike - from Storm River Mouth to the waterfall and back takes us about two and a half hours, and once we get back to our car we are sure looking forward to some pool fun at Misty Mountain Reserve!

Late afternoon by the pool, followed by braai! (braai basket, ordered together with the room reservation - definitely recommended!) During our absence, the staff was even so nice as to put our beers into the fridge, so we are able to enjoy a cold beer by the poolside.

Stormsriver to Swellendam, 29 Dec 2012

We are leaving Stormsriver, our small Nissan Tiida reacting to every tiny pothole in the road that follows the coastline of the Indian Ocean. Although we thoroughly enjoyed the hidden retreat of the Misty Mountain Reserve, my wife and I agree that Mpumalanga and the Drakensberg area had by far more exciting landscapes to offer. Part of it certainly has to do with the large amount of people that invade this coast during the summer vacation months, coming from closeby Port Elizabeth and other larger cities, while the cities we passed in the north didn't have such an obvious amount of tourists. Our assessment is confirmed as soon as we reach Knysna, one of the larger seaside resorts in this area and conveniently located more or less halfway between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town (following my parents' advice, we skipped the even more touristy Plettenberg Bay).

Leaving our car in a parking lot near the harbour, we explore the shopping mall that connects to the waterfront - souvenir shop after souvenir shop, followed by an entire range of seafood and fast food restaurants overlooking the harbour. You could easily take the entire waterfront and put it on some other country's coast, and noone could tell the difference - San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf or Yokohama's Minato Mirai come to mind, just to name a few examples. After finding a place on the veranda, we treat ourselves to some fried fish and a beer. Before we get on with our journey, we cater to the local souvenir industry and purchase a small wooden trey with african ornaments and an ostrich egg with the map of africa painted on it, for a total of ZAR 420 (approx. EUR 30).

The road takes us further along the coast before leaving the Indian Ocean at Mossel Bay. Partly sad to leave the ocean, we are soon relieved of this feeling, looking at smoke stacks and other facilities that indicate a high level of industrialization around Mossel Bay. Later I learn that, besides tourism, oil and gas exploration is a major source of income here. After having left the coast behind, we are impressed by how quickly the landscape changes from the the lush greenery and multitude of plant life that is characteristic for the Garden Route to the seemingly barren hills that ultimately connect to the Little Karoo further north, with its predominant colours of brown, yellow and ocher, indicating an arid climate.

After yet again witnessing several road accidents, and about an hour past Mossel Bay, we see a group of policemen blocking the road and sending all drivers headed for our direction off the road. Upon inquiring one of the officers tells us that due to several bushfires ahead we have to take a detour. Obviously the smoke and resulting limited visibility along the road are the reasons for this detour - which sends us, among dozens of other cars, onto a gravel road where we are soon caught in a huge dust cloud, resulting in exactly the low visibility that we were supposed by taking the detour in the first place. Then again, we would certainly not want to start a debate with the local South African police... Even from the gravel road, we can see small bushfires smouldering everywhere - evidence to the dry heat that is a constant threat during the summer months in this part of the country. In fact, there are road signs everywhere, asking drivers to call in bushfires to the officials whenever sighted.

After about a half hour, but what seemed much longer due to the bad road conditions, we leave the gravel road and continue on the N2 towards Swellendam, soon passing a city called Heidelberg, which couldn't be any more different from its namesake in Germany. As we finally approach Swellendam, we are greeted by the impressive Langeberg Mountains, providing a magnificent backdrop to the equally picturesque city. We quickly find the Marula Lodge and settle for a beer, some snacks and a book by the poolside, enjoying the warm evening sun, before we go for dinner at the next door's Powell House, an imposing mansion that could easily be located somewhere in the US.

Swellendam to Cape Town, 30 Dec 2012

While checking out, Filip, the owner of the Marula Lodge, advises us to not take the straight route to Cape Town via the N2, but take the Tradouws Pass instead, leading beyond the Langeberg Mountains, and aim for the little town of Montagu at the western edge of the Little Karoo.

We gladly follow his advice and backtrack a little on the N2 until we reach the side road that leads to the Pass. Back in the 1900s, so Filip told us, the Buren coming from the coast with their horsewagons made their final stop in Swellendam for repairs and for taking on provisions, before they would travel the old pass in order to reach the Karoo. While it took them more or less fourteen days - and certainly an unmeasurable amount of effort and hardhip - to reach the north side of the mountain range, we comfortably cross the modern pass - built by Masterbuilder Thomas Bain in the late 1900s - with far more than one horse power and the comfort that comes with our rental car.

Beyond the Langeberg Mountains, after turning west towards Montagu on the scenic Route 62, we are welcomed by the magnificent colors of the Little Karoo. The Robertson Wine Valley is also not far from here, and we are reminded of the first wine we tried on our journey. We reach the picturesque little city of Montagu, on the edge of the Little Karoo. Here, apart from the predominant lovely Cape Dutch style buildings, we yet again come to appreciate one of Filip's recommendations: an old English fort, built in 1899, overlooking the nearby narrow river valley from a promontory and providing a perfect view of the surroundings. The fort itself is hard to discern from below, therefore enabling a single English soldier to defend the entire valley against approaching enemies.

The landscape we get to pass through on the road towards Cape Town is among the most beautiful we have seen so far. This area being foremost arid and far away from the sea, it may seem counterintuitive, but it once again shows that nature is an unrivaled artist. After traversing Burger's Pass and Rooihoogte (at 1234m alt.), traffic increases, more and more townships and squatter settlements appear on both sides of the road, and soon we are driving through the suburbs of Cape Town, heading for Woodstock.

Our arrival is made perfect by my sister and her friend, waiting with some chilled bottles of beer on the windswept veranda, and after being introduced to her friends over some fabulous pizza at the nicely located Bacini's, we continue to celebrate our reunion in one of the many pubs on Long Street.

Cape Town & Southern Cape region, 31 Dec 2012 - 8 Jan 2013

Too many beers (and other stuff) and a long day take its toll - we sleep until late on the 31st and try to regain some of our health by enjoying a fruits bowl at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront while watching some traditional African singers perform nearby, entertaining the masses of passing tourists. After that we go for a drive to Signal Hill, enjoying the view over Cape Town and the seemingly endless coastline, while trying not to be blown away by the strong winds that seem to want to uproot all the trees at once.

After having a drink in a nearby pub, we join the crowds celebrating in the large dining hall of the Strand Tower Hotel, toasting each other and wishing a Happy New Year to guests and staff alike. We are welcoming the new year in one of the world's celebrated coastal cities on the southern tip of the African continent - what could possibly be more exhilarating?

then waterfront. "7 people in one taxi, not counting the driver"

Cape Town & Cape Area

On New Year's Day we check into Strand Tower Hotel, to find out that our sister has made sure to get us a room on the 15th floor with a splendid view of downtown, the harbour with the adjacent new soccer stadium and Signal Hill. The downside is that down below runs Long Street, and we soon find out that all the pubs there play loud music until early morning. Afternoon stroll through the city (Long Street, Co. Gardens).

Wine Country

On the 2nd of January we take a drive to the wine country, starting out with a late lunch at the Grande Provence winery in Franschhoek, with a beautiful 18th century manor house, framed by majestic oaks. While the lunch turns out to be delicious, we are a bit disappointed about the small portions, considering the long waiting time - and this in spite of the waiter having told us that we should hurry with our order, since the kitchen was about to close - and us just wanting a quick bite to eat. But I guess we really are to blame, since you shouldn't be coming to such a serene place being in a hurry and just stopping by to grab a bite to eat.

With not quite full stomachs, we continue on to the Delaire winery, located 30km away in Stellenbosch, which offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding valleys and adjacent mountains. My sister yet again works her magical charm on one of the waiters in order to get us our own bottle of wine to enjoy on the outside terrace, without having to join any of the official wine tasting parties that - so my sister tells us - entirely take place inside.

Back in Cape Town, the somewhat meager lunch helps us to enjoy yet another dinner at Bacini's all the more.

Cape Point & Cape of Good Hope

The following day Henrik, my wife and I decide to go for a drive to Cape Point. Accompanied by an overcast sky and a light drizzle, we drive along Hout Bay and the world famous Chapman's Peak Drive - considered to be one of the world's most beautiful coastal drives -, and after a while the sun breaks through, shining upon a turquoise Indian Ocean.

Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. Return via Simon's Town. Sundowner on Table Mountain - chilling winds! Looking at the multitude of tourists from all sorts of countries, I wonder how many of them actually know that they are just now not visiting the southernmost point of the African continent - which is Cape Agulhas, lying further to the east.

On January 4th we meet up with my sister and Henrik to enjoy lunch at Two Oceans, overlooking Hout Bay. I ponder the restaurant's name - simple, yet fascinating -, realizing that this is the first time in my life being in a place that sits on the verge of two oceans. Later we drive to Constanzia and take a stroll through the beautiful Jonkershuis vineyard with a glass of wine, followed by a visit of the fish market at Hout Bay (which my sister wanted to show us in the first place, but was closed earlier that day). We bring the day to a close at the Union Brewery, enjoying some fabulous Altbier in a fenced courtyard in the center of Cape Town, which almost resembles a beergarden. Opposite the brewery, on the other side of the street, is Christiaan Barnard hospital, and although we don't know it yet, we will soon have to spend a couple of hours in this very hospital....

Biscuit Mill

Next day - it is the 5th of January - my sister takes us to the Biscuit Mill, just down the street from her apartment in Woodstock, where we have a Springbok wrap for breakfast at the Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, just down the road from my sister's apartment. Usually it's a quite neighborhood, but this day even a mile away from the Mill men are holding pieces of cardboard indicating nearby parking - these parking spaces are always available, but obviously here is another way of making a few Rand for those in need. My sister explains that the Biscuit Mill was a revitalization project, and surely it stands out in between all the other ramshackle buildings that make up Woodstock. With a little imagining though one can easily picture this area being gentrified in the near future, considering it's a mere ten minute drive away from Cape Town's central business district, and easily reachable via the highway. Therefore my sister might only be half joking when she contemplates investing into some property here. The Biscuit Mill is a colourful mixture of food and beverage stalls, serving local as well as international cuisine for an affordable price, and arts & crafts vendors, making it an exciting market to discover. Later some live music adds to the party atmosphere.

In the afternoon we take the ferry to Robben Island to have a look at the notoriously famous prison off South Africa's southern tip. It's somewhat awe-inspiring to be looking at the southern tip of the entire African continent from the rear end of a boat, headed for Robben Island. I had been to Tunisia more than 15 years ago, and now we were at the southernmost tip of this old continent - and I remember how frustrating it was to later look at a map, seeing the vast area that lay inbetween, thinking we hadn't really seen that much of Africa.

Robben Island Tour!!!

...

Lion's Head

Having contemplated during most of the day whether or not we should go climbing Lion's Head the next morning, we finally make up our mind and get up at 6:45am in order to collect Henrik, who decided to join us, from my sister's place (who has already been up Lion's Head and decided to sleep in). For most of the time it takes us to get to the peak, a rescue helicopter is hovering next to the mountain, and halfway up we can spot the person that obviously fell, lying in the grass without showing any movements and being tended to by the rescue squad, before being taken to a nearby parking lot where an emergency truck was already waiting. Henrik later tells us that apart from the strenuous climb the presence of the helicopter dampened his spirits, and he couldn't gather the courage to continue climbing to the top. It takes us from about 8am to 8:50am to get to the 669m high peak - the first part being a mere walk uphill, the last part involving some steel ladders and requiring hands and feet to get up the rocky outcrop that is the peak of Lion's Head. By 10:30am we are enjoying a hearty hotel breakfast, and after that I test the ice-cold hotel pool. We are never to find out whether or not the climber actually survived his fall.

In the afternoon we got onto cab driver Elroy's taxi, heading to Lynn's parents' place just outside of Cape Town in order to enjoy an afternoon Braai. Elroy looked like he had just stepped out of a Quentin Tarantino movie: wearing a starched shirt with high collar, ringed fingers, his Afro-look and matching sunglasses - and the Soul music he was listening to just perfected the image and made it a very memorable taxi ride. Having enjoyed a fun climb and the magnificent view from top of Lion's Head in the morning, followed by a chilled afternoon with good company, yummy food and excellent wines, to me this feels like one of the most rewarding days of our visit to this beautiful country.

On January 7th we take a stroll through picturesque town of Stellenbosch before continuing onwards to Vergelegen, located in Somerset West. Unfortunately the estate is already closed to visitors due to our late arrival. A swarm of field workers boarding a truck to be brought home just underlines our being late. Drive through Somerset West - not just the place name sounds kind of noble, but it is indeed an upper-class neighborhood with huge villas behind high walls, the streets tidy and lined with trees.

A rather unexpected last-night experience

Dinner @ Carlyle's with my sister and her boyfriend, then taking my wife to the very hospital we were looking at from the brewery beergarden a few days ago due to a sudden food poisoning. She is diagnosed having caught a stomach bug, which seems to go around - according to the nurse, my wife is already the 17th patient today with this symptom - and is put on an IV drip for a couple of hours. Finally, after 3am, we can go back to the hotel to catch some sleep. This was certainly not how we intended our vacation to end.

After our return flight the next day is delayed for one and a half hour, we finally take off, getting a good final view of Cape Town with its prominent geomorphological features of Lion's Head, Signal Hill and Table Mountain framing the city. At more than 14.000m altitude, we traverse the Karoo, offering spectacular views of this vast and barren area. We pass some magnificent cumulonimbus that reflect the evening sun, and shortly after over what I assume must be somewhere close to the Drakensberg area, where we had traveled through just about ten days ago, we can see impressive lightning down below, before we descend towards Johannesburg for a final stopover on our journey home.